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One learned that the South Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of intensely spicy, crudely milled spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if made of wood, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, chopped into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml flavorless oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
10g fresh mint leaves, minced
½ tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for nine minutes, then drain them and leave to steam dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for five minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Pour the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then pound or blitz to a coarse mixture.

Tip into a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then gently stir in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Arrange the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then move to a sheet pan and keep ready – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Whisk all the ingredients for the dressing in a mixing bowl. Heat the grill to its highest setting, then grill the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the heat of your broiler, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, topped with a little more sea salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.